ABSTRACT
The festival of Sivararthri is one among the major festival of Kanyakuamri District. Sivalaya Ottam or Shivalaya Ottam is a very special pilgrimage taken by the devotees of Lord Shiva on the Maha Shivaratri day. Shivalayaottam literally means running from one Shiva temple to another. During Mahashivaratri day and night, devotees perform a marathon run by visiting 12 Lord Shiva temples in Kanyakumari District of Tamilnadu. These twelve temples of Shivalay Ottam are spread within an area of 85 km and are located in and around Kalkulam, the erstwhile capital of Venad.
The three-day Maha Sivarathri festival in 12 shrines of Siva in Kalkulam taluks began at Thirumalai Mahadevar temple at Munchirai, after the devotees from various southern districts as well as the neighbouring Kerala undertook ‘Sivalaya Ottam’ (Marathon run).They started the run after taking a holy dip in the Tamirabarani at Munchirai.2
Kalkulam Taluk
Sivarathri is one of the inter-State (Tamil Nadu-Kerala) festivals celebrated in Kanyakumari District. People from all walks of life participated in the run to cover 12 Siva shrines, situated within Kalkulam taluk. Special pujas were also performed to the presiding deity of the temple at Thirumalai after the ‘Pradosham’ puja and to mark the beginning of the ‘Sivalaya Ottam.’ The devotees then ran through Thikkurichi, Thirparappu, Thirunanthikkarai, Ponmanai, Panthippakam, Kalkulam, Melinancode (Melancode) Thirvuadaicode, Thiruvithancode, Thirupanthiyode and reached Munchirai.
Sankaranarayanar temple at Thirunattalam was the finishing point and it was the only shrine, where a separate temple was dedicated to Vishnu among the 11 other shrines, all dedicated to Siva. Both Siva and Vishnu are placed in a face-to-face position in Thirunattalam. The purpose for undertaking the pilgrimage is fulfilled after the devotees received ‘sandal paste’ from the Vishnu temple. But in all the 11 Siva shrines the devotees were distributed with holy ash as ‘prasadam.4
The devotees, who undertook the ‘Ottam’, wore saffron-coloured robes chanting ‘Gopala, Govinda’. They covered 85 km within 24 hours. The race of pilgrims on Sivarathri uttering the name of Lord Vishnu substantiated the truth that Siva and Vishnu were but two manifestations of one supreme being.
Even as the old tradition of undertaking the marathon run on bare foot is still followed by a few devotees from Tamil Nadu and Kerala, many others now prefer to visit these 12 Siva temples in vehicles. The one among the 12 temples, where the devotees could see both Swamy and Amman was at the Neelakandaswamy Temple at Padmanabhapuram. This temple has some unique features when compared to the other 11 shrines of Siva as it has a gigantic Rajagopuram and a car as well as float festival being organised during March and October every year.
The Sthalapuranas or Sthalamahatmyams of these temples are several full fledged account of the legendary origin and greatness of them. The Sthalapuranas, mostly written in Tamil and Malayalam languages, are associated with some peronages and historical events too. A popular legend finds a place in the Sthalapurana of Thirumalai at Munchirai. In it, it is mentioned that Uthachi, the mother of Thirumala Nayak had no off-spring and as such she undertook a penance at a place surrounded by a fort in the vicinity of Thirumalai. As a result she brought forth a male child. The new born was named after the deity of Thirumalai. The fort is known as Uthatchikkottai and can be seen very near to the Thirumalai Temple.5
Legends
The story of Nandi in the temple of Thikkurichi is one of the finest examples of legends. During nights a bull did havoc to the standing crops of paddy in the vicinity of Thikkurichi. One day this was detected by the farmers and they drove the bull by pelting stones. But the chased animal with drops of blood in its head crossed the river and went into the temple and slept at its original place. This extraordinary affair was brought to the notice of the then ruling prince. As a result of an astrological prasanna sooth saying it was declared that if the bull, supposed to be Nandi, the divine vehicle of Siva was gifted to Daranalloor Nambudiripad a reputed tantri the trouble from it could be got rid off. Accordingly it was gifted to Daranalloor Nambudiripad and he became the owner and Stanikar of the temple. The Nambudiripad by his powerful mantras and tantras and magical rites got the animal under control and deposited it in the whirlpool of the river Thamiraparani. Therefore it is said that there is no Nandi at present in the temple of Thikkurichi.6
Another popular stories are centered around the inception of the twelve siva temples and the subsequent sivalayaootam. The first story is that Yadhistrar the chief descendants of Pandu was in need of the milk of purushamargam known as vygrapad (half beast and half animal) who was a staunch devotee of Siva. Bhima went to the forest with high hopes and great expectation. But to suppress the pride of Bhima and to teach a very good lesson to vygrapada, that Siva and Vishnu presented twelve rudhraksha seeds to Bhima, instructing him to put a rudhraksham as and when he meets any danger, with this advice in mind an rudhraksham in hand. Bhima went to the forest where vygrapada was conducting severe penance. On seeing the beast, he uttered “Govinda Gopala” reached near the beast and attempted to get milk. But, on hearing the words “Govinda Gopala” Vygrapada’s attention was deviated and the idol Siva appears to him as Vishnu irritated over this the angry beast caught hold to Bhima. Bhima was in pell mell.7 To escape from this danger, he dropped one of the rudraksham, where a Sivalinga sprang up.
Consequently, the beast began its usual prayer and penance in such a situations, Bhima again tries to get milk by uttering “Govinda Gopala”. The infuriated beast chased Bhima for a long distance and finally caught hold of him. Realizing the imminent danger, Bhima suddenly dropped a rudraksham for his escape. There too, one Sivalinga appeared at once. Thus, in this way Bhima dropped the twelve rudhraksham at different places. Which created twelve Sivalayams. But when all the rudrashams were dropped Bhima’s one foot was within the areas Vygrapada and another outside. So Bhima argued for his escape. At this critical situation, Yadhishtra arrived and settled the dispute in favour of Vygrapada by which half of Bhima’s body belonged to the beast. After this tussle, the beast voluntarily supplied milk for the yaga. Thus he hatred of Bhima was eradicated and the false idea about purushamrga was wiped out.
Sivalayaootam
Sivalayaootam falls on the Malayalam month of kumbham and Tamil Month of masi, corresponding to February, March on the previous day of the Sivaratri festival. On that day, the Siva devotees start their pilgrimage from one siva temple to other eleven siva temples according to the prescribed serial order. Sivalayaootam is performed mostly by men but seldom by aged women and young girls before attaining puberty.8
The devotees desired for the pilgrimage start fasting one week prior to Masi Ekadasi. During fasting days, they should observe strict bhahmacharya (Celibacy) and refrain from eating non-vegetarian dishes like met egg and fish and drinking intoxicating liquors. They are forbidden to eat any kind of food materials prepared in the kitchen of their house. Usually, on such occasions, they take either the cooked raw rice prepared by themselves in their house yard. A vast majority of orthodox devotee drink the water of tender coconut and milk only.9 But some other devotee preferred to take tender coconut and tender palmyrah fruit at day time and basil leaves and water in the night time. Besides this, they are required to take bath in the morning and evening and after worship in the nearby temple on all days till their journey.
But, now a day the devotees worship at Tirumalai on the same day evening. From Tirumalai the devotees go to Tickkurichi in various groups under the leadership of a guruswamy. They keep modern battery torches of Chootty made up of dry coconut leaves to walk during night time. The devotees chant “Govinda Gopala” enroute though the ottam is named after Lord Shiva. Tickkurichi Mahadevar temple, after Darsan, by adhering to all the previous stipulations and formalities, they offer worship to other siva temples serially known as Tiruparappu, Tirunandikkarai, Ponmanai, Ponnippagam, Kalkulam, Melancode, Tiruvidancode, Tiruvithancode, Tiruppanicode and Tirunattalam10. In all these places they take their holy bat in the river where there is no temple tank. On the way to these temples, the pious ottam ends at Nattalam where the devotees as usual take bath in the temple tank and offer their final worship. Here the priest gives the pilgrims sandal paste and holy water. Besides, the temple authorities used to supply tender coconut and plantain fruits to all the devotees as long as the temple was under Travancore rulers.11 But this system is not in vogue now. To entertain the devotees and to keep them awake throughout the night, variety entertainment such as Kathakali is held. Finally after seeing the morning crescent moon, the devotees disperse to their homes with full satisfaction.
Sivalayaootam occupies an unique place in the socio-cultural life of the people of Kanyakumari District. Every year, thousands of devotees undertake this pilgrimage. It is a note worthy feature to say that though the pilgrims take the holy bath twelve times during their pilgrimage, they are not affected by fever or cold. This sivalayaootam is physical exercise and provides mental solace too.12 The worshippers believe that they will be blessed by Lord Siva and Lord Krishna with prosperity and happiness throughout the year on completion of the ootam. Besides, as social gathering various segments of the people, it encourages the much wanted unity and integration.
The district administration had made all infrastructural facilities particularly drinking water and toilets for the benefit of devotees. As the district was reeling under acute powercut, the Department of Hindu Religious and Charitable Endowment had made arrangements for installing generators in all the 12 temples temporarily to ensure uninterrupted power supply on Sivarathri. Moreover, Tamil Nadu State Transport Corporation operated circuit special bus services, for every one hour from Marthandam to cover all the 12 temples.
– Dr. P. Ezhil Kumar
Assistant Professor, Department of History, Lekshmipuram College of Arts & Science, Lekshmipuram, Neyyoor.
References
1. Kanyakumari District Statistical Hand Book 2003-2004, Nagercoil, 2005, p. 2.
2. P. Narayana Sastri, Thirumalai Devaswom Tkalapurana Churukkam (Malayalam), 1960, p.3.
3. S. Padmanabhan, Temples in Kanyakumari Dstrict, Nagercoil, 1970, p.ll4.
4. P. Narayana Sastri, op.cit., p.3
5. Ibid., pp. 4-5.
6. Thiruvattar Devaswom Records, C.Govinda Pillai, Thiruvattar.
7. M. Desayar, “Sivalaya Ootam in Kanniyakumari District”, Shohak, Vol.24, Part : C, Sr. No. 72, Gandhi Nagar, Jaipur, 1995, p. 145.
8. Ibid., p. 146.
9. Travancore Administration Report 1947- 1948, Trivandrum, 1949, p.24.
10. Report on The Conditions of the Kalkulam Taluk Temples, P.W.D File No: 316.
11.Dinamalar, Nagercoil, 2nd February 1984, p.4.
12.Daily Thanthi, Nagercoil, 17th February 2015, p.12.